Saturday, February 20, 2010

Kenzo Crush

I often have fashion crushes. If I see a stylishly dressed woman with a quirky flair walk by I can't help but look at her with admiration, and jealousy. My favorite couture label is without question Kenzo. The Parisian company is all about arty, eclectic and gorgeous fashion, which are all the things I love. Amidst study procrastination, I checked out their Autumn-Winter 2009/2010 collection (online of course, you can't get much more than Kenzo fragrances in Canberra, sigh) and fell in love with the label all over again.

The collection is filled with detailed trench coats, leather gloves, fur,boots and pretty floral dresses. The clothes have a distinctly Russian feel, with the calf-length dresses teamed with fur-trimmed boots. The patterns remind me of something you would see in a Nathalia Goncharova painting or costume design, with their folkish, vibrant feel. Goncharova was a member of the Russian Avant Garde, with her cubist, colour-rich style reflected in the contrating fabrics and cuts of the latest Kenzo line.

Nathalia Goncharova, Original Ballet Russe Season Program 1940-41,
Illustrated cover, Private Collection.

Nathalia Goncharova, Costume for a Peasant Girl in the Ballet
'Foire de Sorotchinsk',1940, graphite, transparent and
opaque watercolour,
Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco.
I love the colours that dominant the collection; clear blues, metallics, purples, reds showing that winter doesn't have to be boring. It is a chance to accessorise with cute gloves (I would kill for the blue Kenzo ones), jackets and scarves. The Kenzo designers clearly shame my excitement, the over sized cuts of thick material and chunky jewellery indicate that these pieces are designer to keep you nice and warm on those cold winter days.
Kenzo is known for its eclectic, folkish style, something that once again stands out in this collection. The designers have incorporated elements of knitting, quilting and embroidery, giving the jackets a distinctly rustic and unique feel. They are nothing like the slick, streamlined trenches that normally populate the Paris catwalk. This floral piece is my favourite, with its shapeless cut reminding me of my own collection of (much less stylish) handmade, woolen jumpers that are all about keeping you warm, and looking chic in classic florals at the same time.
It is probably a good thing that I'm not anywhere near Kenzo fashions at the moment, my Parisian Aunt had to drag me out of the Paris boutique as I became incredibly overexcited by all the colours, patterns and gorgeous fabrics. I mean really, is $8,000 too much to pay for a Kenzo jacket? Perhaps I should wait until I have a real job. For now, I will have to settle with my tiny bottle of Flower perfume.

For a Kenzo fix you can check out the collection on the Vogue Australia website, where I got these photos by Marcio Maderia:

The Kenzo website also has footage of the runway show, complete with a Babushka doll, blue lights and Russian music. What more could you possibly want in a fashion show?

There is a Kenzo boutique in Melbourne for you lucky things down there,


1 comment:

  1. Beautiful. I love that red and white dress. The embroidery is stunning. I am excited about winter, even if I don't have a Kenzo coat in which to face it.